INKS RANCH CLIMBING FESTIVAL

About the Ranch

Inks Ranch is a cattle and exotic game ranch that has been owned by the same family since the 1830s. The owners have generously agreed to grant limited access to climbers to experience the countless boulders, slabs, and cracks on a certain number of weekends per year.

Land Acknowledgment

This part of the Texas hill country is the ancestral territory of the Nʉmʉnʉʉ (Comanche). Members of this tribe stewarded these lands for generations and continue to live in the region today.

Access Note

The Inks Ranch is only open to the public on approved weekends. The Ranch is not open for “at will” public access.

Directions and Maps

The Inks Ranch is located 22 miles south of Llano, TX off of County Road 113A. A google map link can be found here. Follow Highway 16 either south from Llano or north from Fredericksburg until you reach the intersection with County Road 113. Head west on County Road 113 for 5.9 miles until you reach the intersection with County Road 113A (Inks Ranch Rd). Turn left on County Road 113A and drive for 4.3 miles passing through the open gates marked “Paradise Ranches.” Pass the small lake with the ranch houses and take a left on Inks Ranch Rd. Continue into the Ranch and park at the designated parking area with the metal staircase. A high clearance vehicle is not necessary to drive to the Inks Ranch.

Climbing Beta

Climbing at Inks Ranch is allowed on a portion of the Watch Mountain (the “climbing area”). The climbing is very similar to nearby Enchanted Rock; however, it is important to note that there is very little established climbing at Inks Ranch. Climbers should be self-reliant and competent with route finding, anchor building, and should always ensure that they have a way to descend a climb without leaving gear or tat behind.

• The Inks Ranch is a brand new and mostly undeveloped crag. BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK!
• Bring a helmet.
• The Inks Ranch Climbing guidebook is available on Rakkup.
• A double rack, set of stoppers, 10 draws, anchor building equipment, and a 60m rope will cover all of the established climbing. Most trad climbs tend to use larger-sized cams (BD .75-#6).
• If you climb something that isn’t in the Rakkup guide, it is almost certainly a first ascent! Please document your climb’s location and any relevant beta (name, grade, etc) so that we have a record of your ascent.
• Most of the routes have bolted anchors to rappel off the route. Bring extendable slings or a cordelette for top roping. Be prepared to build anchors if a route doesn’t have bolted anchors.
• Bring a stick clip. Some routes were bolted with high first bolts.
• Bring big gear, if you have it. Inks Ranch contains a lot of off-width options.
• A 35m rope will cover most climbs at the Ranch but bring a 60m rope, or longer, for the taller climbs.
• Boulderers should take care not to damage the sensitive plants around the base of the boulders.
• Wagbags will be for sale for $5.

What to Bring

The Inks Ranch Climbing Festival is a primitive event. Attendees should bring all food, water, stoves, tents, sleeping bags, and amenities necessary for overnight camping. There is no electricity or running water available. Camping is primitive. Portable restrooms will be provided near the Expo Area; however, please bring wagbags for backcountry travel. Cell service is spotty.

Ranch Rules

• AT WILL ACCESS TO THE INKS RANCH IS NOT PERMITTED. The Inks Ranch is open to the public ONLY for special events.
• Rock climbing is allowed from sunrise to sunset within the “climbing area.”
  
• Pets are not allowed at the Inks Ranch.
• Camp and park only in approved areas. Technical 4x4 off-roading on the Ranch is prohibited.
• Pack out what you pack in.
• Campfires are not allowed at this time.
• Do not trespass on adjacent properties.
• Hunting and/or the discharge of firearms is strictly prohibited.
• Collecting, removing, or disturbing plants, rocks, or cultural artifacts is prohibited.

Get Involved

Volunteers are vital to Access Fund’s work in opening areas in Texas like the Inks Ranch. To get involved or to find out more about volunteer opportunities, email us at [email protected]