11/12/2015

Temporary Moratorium on New Fixed Anchors at Castle Rocks State Park

Effective October 11, 2015, the Superintendent of Castle Rocks State Park in Idaho issued a temporary moratorium on placing new fixed anchors within Castle Rocks State Park. All permits issued to current route developers to place fixed anchors and bolts are considered expired. Climbers can still ascend any and all existing routes in the park and are permitted to replace or repair existing fixed anchors during the moratorium as long as they contact park officials in advance.

“The purpose of the temporary moratorium and expiration of permits is to formalize the permit application process for the protection of natural and cultural resources,” states the Superintendent’s order. “Future applications will require specific locations and routes for development, consistent with the process established at City of Rocks National Reserve.” Climbers interested in placing fixed anchors on new routes at Castle Rocks may apply for a permit beginning March 28, 2016, according to Keck’s order.

This temporary moratorium does not include City of Rocks. In addition, this moratorium is not related to the 2013 climbing ban on 400 acres of BLM land within the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area, which remains closed to all rock climbing activities.

Access Fund is currently working with local climbers and climbing organizations on this issue. We will participate in the Castle Rocks State Park Climbing Management Plan Work Group to advocate for the best outcome for the climbing community as the park evaluates the current permit process for fixed-anchor route development. Contact [email protected] for questions.