Access Fund Awards Over $15,000 in Grants to Replace Aging Bolts

We are pleased to announce the 2020 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its sixth year, the Anchor Replacement Fund provides grants to help local climbing communities address the problem of aging fixed anchors. Across the United States, bolts installed in the ’80s and ’90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for local and national partners leading these efforts.

BCC volunteers work to rebolt Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon, ancestral lands of Arapaho, Cheyenne, and Ute | © Boulder Climbing Community

This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for five worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

Wasatch Mountains, Utah Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded a grant to professionalize rebolting efforts in the Wasatch Mountains and help establish best practices for bolt replacement nationally. SLCA is developing a professional rebolting program with paid, expert bolt replacers, who are replacing anchors at crags across their service area. Through this process, SLCA is forming “work at height” protocols and best practices that are insurable and meet rigorous Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) standards. These efforts will not only immediately impact the quality and number of fixed anchors replaced in the Wasatch, but will also pave the way for other organizations across the country to replicate this model. In addition to the Access Fund grant, SLCA has also raised $50,000 through local fundraising efforts and has already begun putting crews in the field to replace anchors.

Chattanooga, Tennessee Southeastern Climbers Coalition
Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) was awarded a grant to provide volunteers from Georgia, Alabama, and Tennessee with the tools to replace aging fixed anchors with the long-lasting, stainless-steel, glue-in anchors that are best suited for the sandstone typically found in the region. The SCC has a long history of anchor replacement work, on both traditional climbing anchors and sport climbs, and regularly hosts ground schools for volunteers, sharing best practices for glue-in anchor installation. However, without the tools needed to properly install glue-ins, local volunteers are unable to implement these best practices and replace aging bolts. This grant will allow SCC to distribute glue-in kits to volunteers and increase the number of fixed anchor replacements.

Front Range, Colorado Boulder Climbing Community
Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded a grant to purchase hardware for replacement efforts at popular Front Range climbing areas, including Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek Canyon, the Flatirons, and North Table Mountain. BCC has been actively replacing fixed anchors on the Front Range since 2013, as well as supporting individual volunteer efforts, hosting rebolting days, and providing ground schools to train interested volunteers in bolt replacement.

Nantahala-Pisgah National Forest, North Carolina Carolina Climbers Coalition
Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded a grant to purchase long-lasting, stainless-steel hardware to replace bolts at Cedar Rock and Big Green in the Nantahala-Pisgah National Forest in North Carolina. CCC has been actively replacing aging hardware for many years, with 530 aging fixed anchors replaced in 2019 alone. The funds provided from this grant will help address aging hardware on classics like the 5.12 test piece Pawing the Void and the three-pitch, 5.7 Trinacious.

Southwest Oregon Southwest Oregon Climbers’ Coalition
Southwest Oregon Climbers’ Coalition (SWOCC) was awarded a grant to replace aging fixed anchors at several popular climbing areas in southwest Oregon, including Callahans, Rattlesnake, and Greensprings. SWOCC has worked to develop positive relationships with local landowners to allow for climbing access in the region, and this grant will help to ensure that the fixed anchors at these areas are maintained at the highest level possible.

The Anchor Replacement Fund is made possible, in part, by support from The American Alpine Club.

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