Bolts
Clipping bolts should never be a mindless endeavor. The bolts and other fixed anchors that keep us safe while climbing require thoughtful use and maintenance to remain in sound working condition. Eventually even the best hardware will need to be replaced and if abused the life span can be significantly shortened. As climbers we have a responsibility to understand the systems we use and what constitutes a bomber vs. sketchy piece of pro.
There are things we can all do to keep bolts and other fixed anchors safe and sustainable.
Essential Skills
- Use your own gear when top roping off of fixed anchors to prevent excessive wear.
- Report bad bolts to your local climbing organization.
- Learn the basics of route maintenance, and do your part to support local replacement initiatives.
- If you're involved in placing or replacing bolts, follow local ethics and learn how to do it safely and sustainably.
- Connect with your local climbing organization and learn how you can support efforts to replace bolts at your local crag.
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​Learning how to evaluate bolts instead of blindly trusting them is a critical skill for any climber, and it could save your life. This content includes: the state of bolts in America, how to determine if you can trust a bolt, and identifying bad hangers.
​Climbers without the time or expertise to replace bolts themselves can still support the effort to make routes safer by donating money, reporting bad bolts, and tightening spinners and replacing non-bolt anchors.
As bolts around the United States begin to age, more and more LCOs are tackling bolt replacement. Here are some tips for organizing bolt replacement at your home crag.
When transitioning from climbing indoors to outdoors, be prepared to venture outside by gaining awareness and skills to minimize your impact.